Fingerboard — Submax Repeaters (intro)

Full session

1. 0. Who this is for Climbers with 2+ years of regular climbing and no recent finger injuries. If that's not you yet, your fingers get stronger fastest (and safest) from climbing itself — skip fingerboarding for now; it will still be here.
2. 1. Warm-up (8 min — never skip) 2 min pulse-raiser, wrist and finger circles, forearm massage, then progressive easy hangs on the LARGEST holds: 3-4 short hangs building gradually, feet on the ground or a chair taking part of your weight. Fingers should feel springy before any working set.
3. 2. Repeaters — 3-5 sets on a comfortable edge Pick a flat edge you can hang with feet assisting (keep toes on a chair/box so you're holding roughly 60-80% of bodyweight — it should feel WORK but never desperate). One set = 6 reps of 7 s hang / 3 s rest, half-crimp or open-hand (never full-crimp). Rest 2 min between sets.
4. 3. Calibrate Finish each set able to do one more rep. Fail earlier → more foot assistance or a bigger edge. All sets easy → slightly less assistance next session. Progress by reducing assistance over WEEKS, not by rushing to full bodyweight.
5. 4. Stop rule (absolute) Any sharp pain, click, or single-finger twinge = stop instantly, that session and that week. Max 2 finger sessions/week including hard bouldering days — fingers adapt slower than muscles feel.