Workout card
Fall Practice + Clipping Calm
Power-endurancePower-enduranceMedium60 mingym
A trusted belayer who knows this is a falling session, a steep-enough wall (clean falls, no ledges), and a gym that allows practice falls. All three or postpone.
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- 0. Prerequisites A trusted belayer who knows this is a falling session, a steep-enough wall (clean falls, no ledges), and a gym that allows practice falls. All three or postpone.
- 1. Warm-up (15 min) 2-3 easy routes; on each one, at a safe clip, deliberately sit back onto the rope from BELOW the bolt. That's level zero — weight the system, feel it hold.
- 2. Graduated falls — small steps, many reps Progress one small step per round, repeating each until it's boring before moving on: fall at the bolt → hands at the bolt, feet climbed above → half a move above → one move above. 4-6 falls per level. Boring is the goal — fear extinguishes through repetition without drama, not through heroic single leaps.
- 3. Breathe before every fall Long exhale, soft knees, hands relaxed (grabbing the rope on the way down is the habit to kill early). Land against the wall feet-first like sitting into a swing.
- 4. Clipping calm — 3 routes Finish with moderate routes where the rule is: every clip happens from a chosen stance, with a normal breath before and after. If a clip feels frantic, downclimb a move, reset, clip again properly.
- 5. Dosage Short and regular beats rare and epic: 20 practice minutes weekly moves the needle in a month. Never end on a scary fall — always close at a level that felt easy today.
Source and safety note
Based on: Dave MacLeod, Graduated fall-practice progression (supports the power_endurance pillar: fear of falling is what stops most climbers from using the fitness they already have on lead) — 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes
Training information only. Not medical advice. Stop if pain, numbness, dizziness, or unusual symptoms show up.