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Fall Practice + Clipping Calm

Power-endurancePower-enduranceMedium60 mingym

A trusted belayer who knows this is a falling session, a steep-enough wall (clean falls, no ledges), and a gym that allows practice falls. All three or postpone.

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Full session

  1. 0. Prerequisites A trusted belayer who knows this is a falling session, a steep-enough wall (clean falls, no ledges), and a gym that allows practice falls. All three or postpone.
  2. 1. Warm-up (15 min) 2-3 easy routes; on each one, at a safe clip, deliberately sit back onto the rope from BELOW the bolt. That's level zero — weight the system, feel it hold.
  3. 2. Graduated falls — small steps, many reps Progress one small step per round, repeating each until it's boring before moving on: fall at the bolt → hands at the bolt, feet climbed above → half a move above → one move above. 4-6 falls per level. Boring is the goal — fear extinguishes through repetition without drama, not through heroic single leaps.
  4. 3. Breathe before every fall Long exhale, soft knees, hands relaxed (grabbing the rope on the way down is the habit to kill early). Land against the wall feet-first like sitting into a swing.
  5. 4. Clipping calm — 3 routes Finish with moderate routes where the rule is: every clip happens from a chosen stance, with a normal breath before and after. If a clip feels frantic, downclimb a move, reset, clip again properly.
  6. 5. Dosage Short and regular beats rare and epic: 20 practice minutes weekly moves the needle in a month. Never end on a scary fall — always close at a level that felt easy today.

Source and safety note

Based on: Dave MacLeod, Graduated fall-practice progression (supports the power_endurance pillar: fear of falling is what stops most climbers from using the fitness they already have on lead) — 9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes

Training information only. Not medical advice. Stop if pain, numbness, dizziness, or unusual symptoms show up.