Fingerboard — MaxHangs

Full session

1. 1. Warm-up (10 min — non-negotiable) Pulse-raiser 2-3 min, wrist/finger mobility, forearm massage, then progressive hangs: large edge easy → medium edge moderate → 1-2 short near-working hangs, ~90 s between. Warm, springy, zero tweaks before working sets.
2. 2. Working sets — 4-5 hangs of ~10 s On a comfortable-but-small flat edge, hang ~10 s at an intensity where you could hold ~2-3 s more (RPE 8-9, never to failure). Adjust intensity with added weight OR a smaller edge — one variable at a time. Half-crimp, shoulders engaged, elbows soft.
3. 3. Rest 3 min between hangs Full recovery between efforts is the protocol — max strength grows from clean maximal recruitment, not accumulated fatigue. Sit down, shake out, chalk.
4. 4. Progression When every hang of a session feels controlled with the 2-3 s reserve intact, add a small increment (~1-2% BW) or move one edge size down — never both at once.
5. 5. Stop rule (absolute) Sharp pain, click, or tweak = stop instantly. Never train MaxHangs more than 2×/week, never on consecutive days, never the day before a limit climbing session. Skin split or thin = bigger edge or skip.