Test — Max Hang 20 mm (monthly benchmark)

Full session

1. 0. What this is Your maximum finger strength on the standard instrument — the single strongest published predictor of climbing grade. Monthly, on a fresh day ('Try hard' readiness), 48h clear of hard finger work. Weigh yourself the same morning and record it — bodyweight is the denominator only, never a target.
2. 1. Warm-up (10 min — non-negotiable) 2-3 min pulse-raiser, wrist/finger mobility, forearm massage, then progressive hangs: big edge easy → 20 mm bodyweight short → 20 mm with light added load, ~90 s between. Springy, zero tweaks, before anything maximal.
3. 2. Work up to the max — 7 s hangs, 3 min rests Add load (harness/pack/pulley takes weight OFF if bodyweight is above max) in the smallest increments you have. Each attempt: hang dead-still 7 full seconds, half-crimp, both hands, shoulders engaged. Rest 3 min between attempts. Expect 3-5 attempts to find the edge of clean.
4. 3. The result MAX = the heaviest load held CLEANLY for the full 7 s (grip creeping to full-crimp, sagging shoulders, or an early drop = not clean, doesn't count). This is a true max test: unlike training hangs, you are allowed to fail here — one failed attempt past your max confirms you found it. RECORD: added kg + bodyweight + '20mm/half-crimp/7s'.
5. 4. Stop rules (absolute) Sharp pain, click, or single-finger twinge = test over instantly, that week. Skin thin or readiness poor = postpone; a bad-day max poisons the trend. One max test per session; nothing else hard on fingers that day or the next.