Onsight Practice — Read, Commit, Climb

Full session

1. 1. Warm-up (15 min) 2-3 routes building from easy to moderate, fully recovered after.
2. 2. Ground reading (every route, 3-5 min) Before each attempt: read the whole line from the ground. Find the probable cruxes, the rests, the clipping stances; mime the hand sequence where you can see it. Reading is a skill — this session trains it as deliberately as any muscle.
3. 3. Onsight attempts — 3-4 routes you've never touched Pick routes around your flash level (hard, but first-try is realistic). One rule on the wall: KEEP MOVING at decision points — commit to your read; adjust as the holds teach you. Coming down having fought beats coming down having hesitated.
4. 4. Debrief each attempt (2 min) Whatever happened: where was your read right, where wrong, what did you miss from the ground? Spotting your own reading biases (always missing hidden feet? underestimating slabs?) is the fastest onsight-grade gain there is.
5. 5. Rest fully between attempts 10+ min — onsighting is cognitively expensive; a tired brain reads badly.