Redpoint Project Protocol

Full session

1. 1. Warm-up (20-25 min) Build through 3-4 routes; before send attempts, add one deliberate light pump + full recovery so the forearms are opened and re-closed.
2. 2. New project? Decode first First sessions on a route are for the MAP, not the send: go bolt-to-bolt, work every move in isolation (pull on draws freely), find every rest and every clipping stance, and write the sequence down afterward. A move you couldn't do that now goes = a successful session.
3. 3. Known project? Rehearse, then burn One bolt-to-bolt rehearsal of the crux and the finish (not a full attempt), then rest 15-20 min, then 2-3 REAL attempts with 15-20 min rest between. Between attempts you sit or belay — no other climbing.
4. 4. On every attempt Use each rest stance until your breathing settles before moving on; rehearse the next sequence in your head before leaving it; carry one process goal you fully control ('clip from the good hold', 'breathe through the crux') alongside the send.
5. 5. Stop rule When an attempt ends lower than the previous one, attempts are over for the day — finish by rehearsing the section that spat you off, then write down what you learned. Projects fall to accumulated knowledge, not accumulated attempts.