Crag Day — Redpoint Tactics

Full session

1. 1. Warm-up pyramid on easier lines (45-60 min) 2-3 routes building from very easy to roughly two grades below your goal route, with full recovery after each. The last warm-up climb should wake up the style of the goal route (same angle/hold type if the crag allows). Never open on the project — cold attempts waste skin AND beta.
2. 2. First attempt, freshest attempt Your best go is the first one after the warm-up — treat it that way. Before pulling on: run the sequence in your head from the ground, chalk up, three slow breaths, one process goal you control ('shake at the ledge until breathing settles'). Then climb without hesitating at decision points.
3. 3. Between attempts — rest like it's part of the route (20-30 min minimum) Sit down, eat and drink something real, belay your partner, review what the last go taught you. Outdoor attempts cost more than gym burns — under-resting between goes is the most common self-sabotage at the crag.
4. 4. 2-3 quality attempts, then stop by rule If an attempt ends LOWER than the previous one, the send window has closed for today — switch to bolt-to-bolt rehearsal of the section that stopped you, bank the beta for next visit, and leave the route wanting you back. That is a successful day, not a failed one. More burns past this point subtract skin, confidence, and next session's freshness.
5. 5. Close the day easy One or two easy routes you'll enjoy — end on movement that feels good, log every ascent AND attempt (tries included) before leaving the crag, and note the conditions (temps, friction) — redpoint projects are condition-dependent and the log builds that intel.
6. 6. Stop rules Sharp pain anywhere = done climbing, no exceptions. Skin worn to pink = done on the project (tape doesn't fix what rest fixes). Fading light or a tired belayer = done. The route will be there; make sure you are too.