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Test — Continuous Hang (monthly benchmark)

EnduranceEnduranceMedium15 minfingerboardhome

The simplest instrument in the battery: how long your grip lasts in one continuous effort. Runs well on the Critical Force day — do this FIRST (it's shorter and less brutal), rest 10+ min, then CF. Monthly.

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Full session

  1. 0. What this is The simplest instrument in the battery: how long your grip lasts in one continuous effort. Runs well on the Critical Force day — do this FIRST (it's shorter and less brutal), rest 10+ min, then CF. Monthly.
  2. 1. Warm-up (6 min) Pulse-raiser, forearm massage, 2-3 progressive short hangs building to one brief 20 mm bodyweight hang, 90 s between.
  3. 2. The test — one hang, one number Start the stopwatch as your feet leave support. Hang dead-still, half-crimp, shoulders engaged, breathing steadily — no foot taps, no re-grips (a re-grip ends the attempt). Hold until the grip opens. Stop the clock at release.
  4. 3. The result RECORD: seconds, single attempt. One genuine attempt per session — a second try after full effort measures fatigue, not capacity. If the grip crept from half-crimp to open/full-crimp midway, note it and keep the number; consistency of grip matters more next month than this month's seconds.
  5. 4. Stop rules Sharp pain = release immediately. Skin or readiness poor = postpone. Counts as finger work for the 48h spacing rules.

Source and safety note

Based on: Eric Hörst, Single continuous bodyweight hang to failure — Training for Climbing (3rd ed.) — grip endurance assessment (secondary published signal per the strength-test-battery spec)

Training information only. Not medical advice. Stop if pain, numbness, dizziness, or unusual symptoms show up.