Test — Finger Endurance: Repeaters (how to)

Full session

1. 0. Is this test for you yet? Same gate as the max test: 2+ years climbing, no finger niggles. Beginners build finger endurance by climbing volume, not by testing it.
2. 1. What it measures How long your fingers keep producing force under repeated load — the 'holding on late in the route' quality; the instrument the 'Finger Endurance' log mode uses. Monthly, a DIFFERENT day from the max test (fresh fingers), 48h clear of hard finger work.
3. 2. Warm-up (5 min) Pulse-raiser + a couple of light progressive lifts/hangs on the working edge. Warm and springy, not tired.
4. 3. The protocol — ONE hand at a time, fixed load Set an interval timer to 7 s on / 3 s off. Chalk fully BEFORE the timer (liquid-chalk base — no mid-test chalking; a chalk stop is extra rest that inflates the count). Right hand: lift/hang the fixed load for the full 7 s each work beep, set down each 3 s rest, continuously. FAILURE = the first rep you can't hold a clean 7 s — the last clean rep is your score. Rest 5 min, then the left hand, same load. Set the timer to count rounds so you write nothing mid-test.
5. 4. First-month calibration, then lock it The load is right if you fail at ~15-25 reps. Past 30 → too easy, add a little next month; under 10 → too hard, drop a little. Once a load lands you in 15-25, LOCK it forever — progress is more reps at the SAME fixed load. Don't add weight mid-test (that's the max test's job, not this one).
6. 5. Log your result Training → benchmarks → Finger Endurance mode: reps to failure + the fixed load used. The trend only means something at a fixed load.
7. 6. Stop rules Sharp pain/click/twinge = stop instantly. Half-crimp or open-hand only, never full-crimp. Counts as a finger day for the 48h spacing rule.