Board Session — Benchmarks

Full session

1. 1. Full-body warm-up (12-14 min — never cut it) Standardized training boards are steep and aggressive on fingers, shoulders AND neck. 2 min pulse-raiser; neck circles + arm circles + 2×6 scapular pull-ups + prone T/Y raises; hip circles + deep squats; progressive fingerboard or big-hold hangs; then 2-3 board problems well below limit, finishing with one deliberate controlled cut-loose.
2. 2. Benchmark block — 25 min, 2 problems Pick 2 unsent benchmark problems at your working board grade (board grades run stiff — expect them well below your gym-boulder best; that's normal, not a demotion). Up to 4 attempts each, from the ground, max effort, 3 min SITTING rest between attempts. Read the problem from the ground before pulling on.
3. 3. Per-problem stop rule An attempt worse than the one before ends that problem for today. Two crisp attempts beat five fading ones.
4. 4. Log in the board app Tick sends before leaving. Your benchmark count per grade is the most honest power-progress metric in climbing — board grades don't negotiate. Then log the same MoonBoard sends and tries in the Climbing page's MoonBoard form so Power gets the dated benchmark without any session-note syntax.
5. 5. Hard stops 45 min of board work maximum including warm-up. Sharp pain in finger, shoulder, or neck = session over immediately. Never the day before or after a fingerboard day — same tendon budget.