Power for Route Climbers — Limit Boulders

Full session

1. 1. Warm-up (15 min) Pulse-raiser, shoulder + finger prep (easy hangs or big-hold pulls), then 4-6 boulder problems building from easy to moderate, with one deliberate controlled dynamic move near the end.
2. 2. Limit block — 30 min, 2-3 problems Pick 2-3 boulders at or just above your flash limit with POWERFUL moves (dynamic reaches, body tension) but friendly holds — route climbers' fingers get their stress from routes; here we want big moves, not sharp crimps. Max-effort attempts, 2-3 min sitting rest between EVERY attempt.
3. 3. Quality gate Every attempt gets full intent — no tired flailing. When attempts on a problem get worse instead of better, that problem is done today.
4. 4. Why this matters for routes The crux of your project is a boulder problem with a pump tax. Raising your boulder ceiling makes every route crux cost a smaller fraction of your maximum — this is where route grades hide.
5. 5. Stop rule 45 min of hard attempts maximum. Sharp pain anywhere = done. Don't stack this the day before or after a fingerboard day.