Workout card
Campus Board — Introduction
PowerPowerHigh45 mingym
Campus boarding is the highest finger-injury-risk tool in the gym and earns its place only for experienced climbers (4+ years of consistent climbing, established fingerboard history, zero current finger issues). If any of that isn't you, limit bouldering delivers most of the benefit at a fraction of the risk — genuinely.
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- 0. Read this first Campus boarding is the highest finger-injury-risk tool in the gym and earns its place only for experienced climbers (4+ years of consistent climbing, established fingerboard history, zero current finger issues). If any of that isn't you, limit bouldering delivers most of the benefit at a fraction of the risk — genuinely.
- 1. Warm-up (15 min — as if for a max session) Pulse-raiser, full shoulder prep (scap pull-ups, T/Y raises), progressive fingerboard hangs to a near-working intensity, 2-3 moderate boulder problems. Warm is the minimum; primed is the standard.
- 2. Ladders on the LARGEST rungs — 4-6 sets Matched hands start, ladder up alternating leads (1-2-3 pattern, or smaller reaches if the board is tall), step off at the top — no down-campusing yet, ever, in an introduction. One ladder = one set. Rest 2-3 min between sets, full intent every time.
- 3. Feet-on option If feet-off ladders feel > RPE 8, run the same pattern with feet on a rail/holds — the explosive hand timing is the training; bodyweight percentage is negotiable.
- 4. Session cap 15 minutes of actual campus work, maximum, however good it feels. Power quality decays silently and tendon risk climbs as it does.
- 5. Stop rule (absolute) ANY finger or elbow sensation beyond muscle effort = stop instantly and end finger training for the week. Campus 1×/week maximum, never within 48h of fingerboard or limit-boulder days, and skip entirely during high outdoor-volume weeks.
Source and safety note
Based on: Michael Anderson & Mark Anderson, Campus board — introductory laddering progression — The Rock Climber's Training Manual
Training information only. Not medical advice. Stop if pain, numbness, dizziness, or unusual symptoms show up.