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Crag Day — Outdoor Bouldering

PowerPowerHigh180 minnone

Walk the fall zone: place pads to cover where you'd actually LAND (especially the top-out fall, not just the sit-start), close gaps between pads, clear rocks and bags. Brief your spotter — their job is guiding your hips over the pads, not catching you. No pads/spotter for a problem with a real fall = that problem is not on today's menu.

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Full session

  1. 1. Landing first, climbing second (every problem, before anyone pulls on) Walk the fall zone: place pads to cover where you'd actually LAND (especially the top-out fall, not just the sit-start), close gaps between pads, clear rocks and bags. Brief your spotter — their job is guiding your hips over the pads, not catching you. No pads/spotter for a problem with a real fall = that problem is not on today's menu.
  2. 2. Warm-up (25-30 min) Pulse-raiser on the approach counts for something, but still: joint circles, shoulder + finger activation (progressive pulls on an easy problem's starting holds), then 4-6 easy problems, feeling how THIS rock's friction and feet behave before trying hard.
  3. 3. The session: 2-4 problems worked properly (90 min) Pick problems that inspire you around your limit. Work moves in isolation, rest a FULL 2-3 min between attempts (sit on the pad, don't hover), and re-check pad position whenever the attempt's high point moves. Quality attempts with real rests — outdoor power is expensive; spend it deliberately.
  4. 4. Skin is the session's fuel gauge Check fingertips between attempts. Rough is fine; hot-pink and thinning means 2-3 more attempts maximum on friendly holds; any split = done for the day. Skin left at the boulder today is sessions lost next week — file/tape kit in the bag, always.
  5. 5. The highball line If a top-out is tall enough that a fall from the last move scares you, that fear is DATA: either the pads and spotters genuinely cover it, or you save the problem for a day with more pads and people. Walking away from a highball is judgment, not weakness — write it in the wishlist and come back equipped.
  6. 6. Close + log Finish on an easy classic you'll enjoy topping out. Log problems and attempts before leaving. Note friction conditions — outdoor bouldering grades swing with temperature, and your log is where that pattern becomes visible.
  7. 7. Stop rules Sharp pain (fingers, shoulders, ankles) = done. Fading focus or rushed pad checks = done — outdoor bouldering punishes autopilot. Rain or seeping holds = the rock decides.

Source and safety note

Based on: Eric Hörst, Outdoor bouldering session structure + standard pad/spotter practice — Training for Climbing (3rd ed.)

Training information only. Not medical advice. Stop if pain, numbness, dizziness, or unusual symptoms show up.