Workout card
Limit Bouldering
PowerPowerHigh75 mingym
Pulse-raiser, shoulder + finger preparation (progressive big-hold hangs or easy crimpy problems), then a ladder of 6-8 problems from easy to one flash-level problem. Fully recovered before the limit block.
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- 1. Warm-up (20 min) Pulse-raiser, shoulder + finger preparation (progressive big-hold hangs or easy crimpy problems), then a ladder of 6-8 problems from easy to one flash-level problem. Fully recovered before the limit block.
- 2. Limit block — 2-3 problems, ~35 min Problems at or just past your current limit — moves you can ALMOST do. Work them move by move if needed. Maximum effort on every attempt, then 3 full minutes of sitting rest — the rest is not optional, it's what makes the next attempt worth anything.
- 3. Progress = a move, not a top Success today is a hold latched that you couldn't latch last week, a foot that finally sticks. Tops come as a byproduct weeks in. If you're topping everything you chose, you chose too easy.
- 4. Attempt-quality gate When two consecutive attempts on a problem get worse, that problem is finished today — move on or end the block. Grinding a fading body on limit moves trains failure and invites injury.
- 5. Stop rule + scheduling Sharp pain = instant stop. Limit sessions live on fresh days — never after route intervals or a fingerboard day, and 1-2×/week is plenty.
Source and safety note
Based on: Steve Bechtel, Limit bouldering — maximal-difficulty attempts with full recovery — Logical Progression
Training information only. Not medical advice. Stop if pain, numbness, dizziness, or unusual symptoms show up.